Teapot Mountain: a nice hike to add to your day in Jiu Fen
Teapot mountain is
a cute name for an enjoyable ocean side hike located a short ride from
Jiu Fen's old street. The hike gets its name from the view of the
rock outcropping at the summit of the trail which looks like a teapot
without its handle. From start to finish you'll need to budget
between two and three hours of your day to get it done, less if
you're an avid hiker and decide not to climb your way around to
higher peaks nearby. It's a more forgiving journey than the one up
nearby Mt. Keelung, and while the view from the top isn't quite as
epic on a beautiful day it has more character and far fewer people.
From Taipei take bus
1062 from ZhongXiao FuXing MRT which is labeled Jin Gua Shi. The
pick up point changes fairly often so check the station map to
confirm you get to the right spot. You can also take bus 788 from
Keelung, and if you're out at Rui Fang station there are two buses
serving the mountain from there.
The bus route to/from Taipei.
A note of caution.
Jiu Fen is a massive tourist draw and is one of a select few parts of
Taiwan which has touts on hand. Drivers will wait around the bus
stops in Taipei and Keelung and try to tell you the bus just left,
there aren't any buses, or other nonsense. The bus from Taipei is 110
NT to the end of the line, and it should be 95 to the old street. The
ride takes about an hour and a half. If you opt for a private ride
you'll pay at least double the bus price each way and get there about
five minutes faster.
Once you get up to
Jiu Fen, you're able to get out and see the old street first, or take
it in on your way back. To do this hike you'll get off at the gold
museum station about five minutes down the road from the old street.
After getting off, make your way to into the compound of Japanese era
buildings set into the mountain which follows a brick trail outside
some repaired miner's dorms. There have been a ton of improvements to
make the museum into a more visitor friendly place, but just taking a
look at the free displays and walking the compound should be enough.
You can't get deep into the old mines no matter how much you pay, so
keep your cash for the tourist streets.
The main entrance to Jin Gua Shi.
A mining cart, with gold!
You'll slowly climb
upward as you pass through the compound, and the first signs to
follow are those towards the Shinto shrine. It was built by the
Japanese and lies just above the mining encampment its its tori is
visible from below. The trail up is about 600 meters and is worth a
look if you've got the time. The old mining village is really picturesque and it's not a wonder that it's finally become a tourist attraction in its own right.
Mail some postcards or enjoy some nature.
Most of the structures were first built by the Japanese.
Up and up, and a right at the top of these stairs.
You'll keep moving upwards and eventually you'll come upon an old set of
mining tracks. There are some carts available for you to take photos
in and even push back and forth along the old rails. The carts end at
a massive set of old mining equipment and a pay-to-enter simulation
of the old mine. The equipment is free and awesome to see, and the
outside of the simulation building has a very cool copper filtering
system model. The buildings here house the exhibits that are worth skipping unless you're a mining enthusiast.
Original cart tracks.
Picture friendly carts you can push!
Hundred year old machines.
There's a little V
shaped cut in the mountain just past these last few buildings which
has a little bridge over a small waterfall/stream to a walkway on the
other side. At the end of the bridge you'll have the first access to
teapot mountain through a set of lockable steel doors. The trail is
seasonal at best, but it's quite pretty when open and follows the
river up to where it rejoins the main trail on the paved road to
teapot mountain.
See that red dot next to the V? That'll be you just before you start hiking.
That wooden bridge leads to the temple, and the trails.
The seasonal trail at the end of the bridge. The gates were open, but the trail was closed.
If that trail is closed, or you want to see more of
the natural beauty of the area, keep walking along the brick path
until you come to a set of stairs set back from the road. They are
right behind a massive golden statue on top of a temple, and on a
clear day it's a landmark that can't be missed.
It was too foggy. This guy is usually visible from the gold museum.
Clearly marked trail head for the hike.
The ascent is
predominantly steps of moderately even grade no matter which fork of
the trail you start you hike from. The trail crosses a zig-zagging
road twice, which breaks up the monotony of just powering up the
stairs and affords some beautiful views. There are a few small areas
where the trail breaks down into a small dirt path, so don't worry
that you've gone astray.
The first steps up at the temple entrance.
As you ascend you'll
be treated to better and better views of the coastline, Keelung
mountain, and nearby Jiu Fen. The ocean water directly below this
trail looks dirty, but in reality is mineral deposits getting washed
off the shore. The abundance of deposits helps explain why the area
was so heavily mined by the Japanese.
You'll need to
follow the road to the left once you get to the pavilion at the top
of the stairs where you reach the road for the second time. The road
will end with an overlook and another set of stone steps on your
right with a marked sign for teapot mountain. Head up these steps and
make your way up to the top. Theres areas which are just rock filled
grass so be careful if you're not wearing hard bottomed shoes.
You'll come up those stairs on the right. Follow the road to the next set of steps.
On the most recent
visit here there was a new, angry looking red sign telling hikers the
are not allowed to enter the teapot because it is too dangerous. The
pot was always a favorite place to scamper over some rocks and
afforded some really unique views of the nearby mountains. The ropes
through the pot are still there, but the lowest portion of them has
been cut off. The existing ropes are still easily reachable, but this
blog is not condoning climbing into the pot against the clearly
written sign's warnings.
Angry looking do not enter sign.
The way down can be
done in one go and can take even novice hikers only 20 to 30 minutes.
If you're heading to Jiu Fen old street or Taipei, you'll want to
follow the signs at the bottom of the stairs towards the temple which
is downhill and slightly to your right. You'll end up just next to
the main pavilion of the temple, which you cross and head into a
parking lot. There are bathrooms here just past the temple on the
right, and a few stores will sell water or snacks if the weather is
nice.
Marker for the stairs down to the temple.
The stairs lead down on the left side of this photo.
Buses leave for
Keelung leave from the entrance to the gold mining museum, which you
access by taking a left at the bottom of the trail and then walking
back down and through the gold museum. It's possible but a bit
dangerous to walk past the temple, the bus stop, and then walk on the
road back to museum. Alternatively, take the bus back to the Jiu Fen
old street and change buses there.
One word of caution
about the buses at the temple. There are times you'll have to pick
between a few different buses all marked for the same route. As part
of their schedule drivers get a rest period at this temple and the
first bus in line is not always the bus which will depart next. The
customer service at this stop is poor at best, notably the complete
lack of logical bus departures or communication from drivers.
Passengers can often be seen chasing the bus as it leaves, shouting
for it to stop. If you have to wait outside a bus, make sure you're
somewhere that any passing bus has to see you before it disappears,
and enthusiastically wave them down. Just say Jiu Fen (15$) or
Taipei(110$). If it's bus 1062, and it's leaving, you want to be on
it.
Comments
Post a Comment