See the True Taiwan: an insiders guide

For as long as I can remember people who come to Taiwan have asked about "those wild hot springs in Yangmingshan".  Somehow the idea of soaking in volcanic water in the untamed wilderness appeals to nearly everyone, and there are a ton of blogs written about the experience at Bayan. Perhaps it's the clever name that gets people involved - wild hot springs do sound fun! - but the name tells little of the truth. A better name is "Bayan technically illegal agrichemical waste water often over crowded and full of bathing soaps wading pools", but who would want to waste a whole day going there? Agrichemicals sounds like they make for an uninviting swim, but where do the pollutants come from you ask? Just uphill of the springs - and an area you'll need to pass through if you descend to the springs - is a giant farm which also features a man made reflective pool with a rock garden. As you descend from the road you'll snake your way through the fairly exten...

Qingtiangang is one of the most popular mountain-top spots for recreation in Taipei City. Weekend revelers stream up the narrow roads connecting to this Japanese-made cow pasture to enjoy an afternoon of fresh air and sun. Large open grasslands and ruined colonial buildings set a tone of relaxation, engagement with nature, and a sense of history. Welcome! The meadow everyone visits, with cows. Note the couple on the left. The meadows surrounding the parking lot area were actually populated with livestock by the Japanese during the colonial era. There was a need for pastureland near the mines which were springing up all across northern Taiwan, and what is now known as Qingtiangang was their answer. Today the pasture is only a fraction of its original size due to the regrowth of inedible plants and trees in the once completely deforested space. The span of the pasture once went from the foot of Qixingshan to Fengguikou, which backs up to the neighborhood of the national pala...

Yeliu 野柳 is a small town located north of Keelung 基隆 which is home to the Yeliu Geopark, a narrow strip of rock which juts out into the ocean. In addition to the park there is a Sea-World-like dolphin show and a string of restaurants which seem hell bent of having tourists eat there. The parking lot which spans the area between the docks, the park, and the marine spectacle is perhaps one of Taiwan's most obnoxious tourist traps. There is even a flea market which reportedly never has good prices unless you're a local, a criticism which has been leveled at the restaurants as well. Despite what I feel is well-earned criticism, Yeliu is worth a stop if you're interested in seeing the geopark. Plan to spend time walking the entire park area if you come inside because there are many quirky little areas to explore. The geopark is a great spot to add to any north coast itinerary assuming you see the park and get out of the surrounding area ASAP. When you come here you should ge...

In Taipei there is an overwhelming majority of concrete. The buildings, the sidewalks, some of the roads, and even much of the parkland. Blacktop and shower tiles make up most of the rest of what you'll see, and then you'll find buses, cars, and scooters in nearly every open space that isn't crawling with people. Frustratingly, the parks here tend to have paved surfaces with a few trees sticking out. Decorative plants get to rest around the trees for a season, and are then ripped up and replaced with new ones. This shot was taken at a pocket park in DaZhi in ZhongShan district. The temple is kept in great shape year round. But it  makes sense in a way. Mosquitoes breed like crazy anywhere wet enough to sustain their multitude of eggs, and any time you sit near a plant during mosquito season you're likely to get bit. The paving would make more sense if there weren't tons of cracks and standing surface water for the insects to breed in anyway. Yet, her...