See the True Taiwan: an insiders guide

This is a re-updated post of clubs in Taipei. If you're looking to go out in Taipei for a good time, its worth it to know that things have changed significantly since the last time this blog posted about going out. Clubs: To date, if you're a well dressed, foreign man without the company of women of any race, expect to be given SOME trouble at the top clubs. Still true in 2023. Not going to name names, but party life seems to have separated into places that cater to foreigners, and places that prefer a more local vibe. Straight up refusing entry isn't something to worry about, but you might find things feel a bit off in the wrong spot. Remember They're A Business: Clubs want to make money, and if its a good idea to make money off of you they will. Some prices are specific for men / women, foreign / not foreign, etc. Although the practice is fading away bit by bit. Don't be surprised if you can't get a deal on entry for some reason, even if it was posted o...

One of the greatest, and worst, things about Taipei is its basin-like structure ringed by mountains. On hot summer days the heat and smog linger for what feels like an eternity and even strong winds can't blow it all way. Yet go up any of those mountains at night and you'll be rewarded with a spectacular view. Enter one of the all time classic things to do in Taiwan: The night view. Despite some rather intense discussion about if "night view" actually means anything in proper English, it's definitely what it's called here. Elephant Mountain at night in 2013. The most popular spot to take in the city at night is Elephant Mountain. You make the short but steep ascent to the large stones, turn around and...prepare to be even more breathless! On a clear night you can see the whole city from east to west, as well as almost entirely from south to north. Pre-dusk back when Nanshan Plaza hadn't gotten to full height. Elephant mountain. ...

This blog has a few reviews of hikes to go on for a day trip if you head down to Shenkeng old street of Shiding. Both towns are great to see if you're ready to spend a day touring around the mountains south of Taipei. The two trails featured here are within easy walking distance from the river and old street in Shenkeng, and are actually part of the same set of (partially) linked hiking paths. If you're really in the mood you can walk up and over the mountains here and get to Maokong Station on the gondola which runs behind the Taipei zoo. To save 99% of readers time, the final conclusion of this entire article is you should avoid these hikes unless you've a) done all the hikes in Taipei already, or b) are doing it in winter and are a genuinely avid hiker with a good understanding of how to use your phone's GPS. These hikes are not suitable for casual walks on a date, or for people just looking to stretch their legs. I set out to do this hike on the first of tho...

Right before the Chinese New Year Taipei City started demolishing a long ramp up to the Zhongxiao Bridge which, while helpful for drivers, was a massive eye sore in one of the city's most heavily visited central areas. Now, several weeks on, the construction is nearing its end, commuters have gotten used to new traffic flows, and a small park has been built around what was previously an overlooked landmark. Despite living here for a long time, there is something cool about actually being able to pass through the gate and hang out in the space around it without being in the middle of traffic. The outward side of the gate, as seen from the new park. The new park under development, with the Zhongxiao bridge in the back. The city side of the gate seen from Boai Road. The move was one of many designed by city hall to make Taipei a more pedestrian friendly place and encourage residents and visitors to get around on their own power. Many visitors to Taipei at some po...

For the first time in my time here in Taipei it actually snowed. In years past there were many jealous looking faces as I boldly claimed it would be a near impossibility for it to actually get cold enough in northern Taiwan to snow in the city. A winter wonderland of sorts. January 24th, 2016 I was out changing the oil on my motorcycle, and it happened. There were about three or four flakes falling, but they were falling none the less. In the most technical sense, it snowed. Of course it required an immediate drive up Yangmingshan to join in with everyone else who had their own transportation or time to bus it up the mountain. The roads were packed to bursting with cars, scooters, and even walkers taking in the wintry sights. Right around the culture university the snow got into full swing, and the excitement of everyone around was palpable. By the time my scooter snaked up to the national park proper there were snow laden trees and almost enough accumulation for it ...

Things are progressing rapidly at the Nanshan plaza construction site in Taipei's Xinyi district. Last year the site was nothing but a massive hole in the ground, but around the clock construction this year has central section of the tower looking to reach 20 floors by January 1, 2016. NanShan Plaza construction as seen from Taipei 101 in late November. The building is across the street from Taipei 101, and is slated to top out somewhere around the fifty floor mark. Formerly a farm, and then a parking lot, the construction will at the very least help to balance out the Taipei skyline, and dramatically change the view from elephant mountain. It will be nearly doubly the height of the neighboring Hwa Nan building, and artists renderings show the final product resembling the London shard. Construction seen Jan 26th, 2016. Update Jan 2016: The below seems to have resolved itself, and a contact who works at Nanshan revealed that the strike was only for specific job pub...

Qingtiangang is one of the most popular mountain-top spots for recreation in Taipei City. Weekend revelers stream up the narrow roads connecting to this Japanese-made cow pasture to enjoy an afternoon of fresh air and sun. Large open grasslands and ruined colonial buildings set a tone of relaxation, engagement with nature, and a sense of history. Welcome! The meadow everyone visits, with cows. Note the couple on the left. The meadows surrounding the parking lot area were actually populated with livestock by the Japanese during the colonial era. There was a need for pastureland near the mines which were springing up all across northern Taiwan, and what is now known as Qingtiangang was their answer. Today the pasture is only a fraction of its original size due to the regrowth of inedible plants and trees in the once completely deforested space. The span of the pasture once went from the foot of Qixingshan to Fengguikou, which backs up to the neighborhood of the national pala...

So the Vieshow cinema near Taipei 101 now sports a new Jamba Juice on the first floor. The line can be pretty long even on weekdays, but it's to be expected. Taiwanese folks love to turn out in droves for the opening of new transplanted foods, and Jamba is no exception. This is the line when the store just opened for the day. For anyone craving their taste of the Jamba the product is pretty much indistinguishable from its American counterparts, but the size has been shrunk a bit. A 16 ounce cup will run you the size of the jumbo cup back home, at 150 ~ 170NT. Don't let the lines keep you away, or wait till the buzz dies down and get yourself some if you need that Jamba fix.

A lot of people who visit and relocate to Taiwan are curious about getting out on two wheel in what has been described as a cycling paradise. The idea this island is paradise is a misnomer and puts way too much pressure on this island to perform. Taiwan is most correctly called a good place to cycle. All of Taiwan's cities are easily biked because the infrastructure is set up for scooters. You'll be moving slower than scooters and you won't be treated the same way, but there is definitely more respect than you'd get in most western cities. Drivers in Taiwan rarely have issues with bikes, and they're not driving badly to piss you off or to make a statement about the place bikes have in society. If they're driving poorly it's just because they're bad drivers, plus the driving culture here is based on perceived privilege and the idea that might makes right. There are also some rather glaring flaws in the legal system for punishing drivers who hit ped...

Fall brings a heavy load of new arrivals to Taiwan's universities and buxibans, so it's a good time to brush up on the fundamentals of clubbing. What are the true things about Taipei's club scene? Where are the good clubs in Taipei? What are the basics for making sure you have a good night out? First of all, forget everything you have read on the internet which makes Taiwan seem like a clubbing paradise. While what you have read may once have been true, things have changed a lot in the last year after an incident involving a death outside of one of the city's nightclubs. Don't be surprised if the police show up during your night out - it's far more common with the public safety concerns raised by the incident last fall. While it is a mood kill, be nice to them - they're just doing their job and it makes everything go far smoother. The Harsh Truth: Men, Taiwanese girls are not easy and just because they're dressed well, doesn't mean th...

The Shifen waterfall is a once-private-now-publicly managed waterfall which sits just outside of the small railroad town of Shifen 十分. This is a must-see destination for people who are coming to the Pingxi 平溪 area on a day trip. The weekends get crowded and riding the tourist train can be a bit intense, and this write up focuses mostly on the waterfall which should be one of many stops on a full day trip along the old Pingxi rail line. The main drag in Shifen was built with the railroad running right down the middle of it and you used to be free to walk the rail lines unless the train was coming. There are new crowd control barriers but there is only one track so rail service is slow so you shouldn't be afraid of a passing train. Don't be afraid to walk out and grab a few pictures in downtown, although being on the tracks is technically a punishable offence. Getting shots of yourself and a passing train mere feet behind you are also an obvious must.  This street is a f...

The National Palace Museum 台灣故宮博物館 is one of the few places that is a genuine must see on your trip to Taiwan. It's possibly even worth making a stop in Taipei if you're going to be outside of the capital just to be sure you get to see the treasures it houses. Some of the pieces in this museum are just that stunning. To make a long history lesson short, the bulk of the collection housed at the palace was brought over from China during the civil war. There was a limit to how much the army could take with them as they bounced around the country, so only those objects deemed truly valuable were brought along. As a result, the Taiwanese half of the museum - the other is in the Forbidden City in Beijing - houses a disproportionately high volume of culturally meaningful art. Thankfully, the curators at the museum have packed the permanent collection with great pieces, and there are which come out of storage in rotation. With all the great pieces of art from China's past ...